Introduction to Pattern Design – Measurements Basics
Every wonder how a designer of costuming would begin to design costuming and every wonder how those beautiful medieval gowns are made? I know I have been asked in the mundane world of where I have found the costumes that I wear or have made for someone else. Most costuming of historical period is usually not available, and in the most cases one would either depend on some one else to make, or and depending on a bought pattern. I Mistress Christiana hope to take the mystery out of this task, and how fully take the mystery out of pattern making. In designing patterns one should have a good mathematical skill in the ability of designing patterns. Most formulas I have included with the design post, but it will be your responsibility to record and use your own measurements. I Christiana do not assume responsibility if the item does not fit, but the reason why it does not fit, is that you have not correctly applied the formula. It is also recommended that one should be able to sew, as most of period historical costuming can be difficult to make, although if you are new to this, Norse is rather simple for the most part.
I Mistress Christiana am now a member of the Duchy of Connacht as of April 2011, which is a subdivision of the Adrian Empire, and I use to be a member of the Society of Creative Anachronism. When I Christiana decided to play this game in October 2005, I had to use loaner garb to partake in an event, and then the creative juices begun to run. At first with no access to immediate historical information on costuming I Christiana had to resort to store bought patterns, of which most (after I have done some historical research) are incorrectly drawn. Example: Some cultures of the historical ages gone by did not use what we call today “princess seams”, and within most of the bought patterns would call for princess seams. Although they did exist back – or a form of in the Norman period of the late 1300s as per one of the little booklet I had attained, in later designing and in Norse I have found no reference to princess seams. In this I begun the task of research for my persona (Tudor Elizabethan) and begun using what I have learned in the mundane world of fashion design, and applied the principals to designing costuming. Since than I Christiana had applied this knowledge to Norse and Norman period costuming, and I believe it will also work on most other types of costuming. Below is contained the basic knowledge and tools required to make your own pattern. In persona research, everyone is different, and I Christiana will not go into this, as everyone that chooses a persona, is too numerous to cover in detail.
Where to fine information before beginning
In designing of a period costume, one should begin to take a look and answer to yourself: What persona do I wish to do? Some Anachronism groups set certain guidelines here, and one must look at the rules before selecting colors, and even the fabric. Other groups may not be so rigid. If looking for the rules of your group, please look at the chatelaine section under your group, or similar area under newcomer’s as this usually sets the requirements of what you can wear and what you cannot.
So with these questions – persona answered, and recommendation and rules of your anachronism group, one may proceed to begin the design procedure, but one must first do a bit of homework. In designing and to be relatively historical accurate, one may begin their research within the Library and or local Museum and in some cases even the art gallery of the historical masters. In this one can be able to find some reference to the costume that you may choose to do. It is also recommended to do a web search using the Goggle search engine, but please be specific, as a lot of listing can result from the search including e-commerce sites. If using the web search, make sure that it is from a reliable site, like that of a university, or museum web site. It is not unknown to have over 10,000,000 listings if your search is not specific.
In designing most if not all fabrics were weaved on a handloom and most would not be over 42 inches wide. Therefore in designing keep in mind that we are dealing with hard weave cloth. For those that wish to be period fabric, please look at wools, linens, and silks – there were no synthetic fabrics or stretch fabrics as far as I know back before the beginning of the 20th century. Some synthetic materials can be substituted, but please remember the rules of your group under garb, and please use what is known as the ten foot rule. It must look period to the historical persona that you are depicting.
Measurements:
Here we will learn the basics of how to make a standard bodice that is to your shape I Mistress Christiana will mention that this is also the fundamental design course condensed that would be taught at a fashion school, and yes, the designing course will work on all aspects of historical to modern design.
Lets Begin!
The first thing is the miss-conception that I know my size. In all walks of life there are many different shapes, some skinny, some pear shape, some that look like apples. With this technique I had learned in the mundane world, these formulas that work with your measurements will mean that it will FIT if it is done properly. Below we will begin with the proper measuring and recording of your measurements. Each post will have the formulas required for the said project, but here – this is an overview. If you wish you may print this page, for updates to your measurements do to weight loss or gain, and height growth. Please do not use these formulas on children, unless they are well into the puberty age. Children measurements and formulas are different and at this time there is no plan to make a course structure for period garments for children at this time.
Hats and Coifs measurements.
Measuring for hats and coifs: This post that is under construction, but the measurements required would be headband size, and from neck to forehead – over the top, to determine measurements for the coifs. More will be cover in a future post on hats and coifs.
How to measure – Woman meaurements
In measuring please check diagram (will be posted soon) to placement of tailor tape measure and record your measurements. To obtain these measurements it is best to have two people – yourself and a friend taking the measurements. You should be dressed in just undergarments when you are having these measurements taken. For the formulas to work please do all measurements in inches.
Diagram of wear and how to measure – for woman – Body Measurements
Neck (1)___________________. Shoulder (Left – right width (2)_________________.
Bust (3)___________. Bust height (4) ______________. Bust point (5) ____________.
Waist (6) ____________. Hip (7) __________. Hip height ________________.
Front waist length (8) ____________. Back waist length (9) ______________.
Front width (10) ____________. Back Width (11) ____________.
Sleeve length (12) ______________. Sleeve width [wrist) (13] ___________.
Upper arm [(measured down 1 ½ inch from armpit) (14)] _____________.
Doublet length (15) ___________. Skirt length ___________.
Pants: - Outer Seam (17)____________. Knee length and skirt knee height. _______.
Inseam (18) __________. Crotch Height (19)_______.
Ankles _________.
Note: - for pants both sexes uses the waist, hip height, and hip along with pant measurements.
If the male persona requires a tunic (Norse or Roman) use skirt measurements, bust measurements, and shoulder measurements, and height measurements, back waist length and front waist length: Example skirt length + front waist length = overall length of tunics and or Norse customing.
This will be cover in the future under male costuming, however there are similarities in measurements when during the Tudor, Elizabethan period, as males in the Elizabethan period did wear corsets. I Mistress Christiana have found that these measurements do work for males, however I do not recommend the ease formulas that are used on females.
Tools required for pattern drafting
Tools – For drafting you will need some basic tools. The tools I recommend are available from Can Sew in Vancouver, but from time to they can be found at better sewing shops. Lance, or Fairgate either makes these type of tools. Note these drafting instruments can be expensive, but are well recognized by the pattern drafting companies and will last you a lifetime. Average cost is around 27.00 each.
Tape measure: Basic of all basic: a good reliable cloth tape measure – should be at least 60 inches long at least. For a couple of quarters more it is possible to obtain the 120 inch tape, and I do recommend the 120 inch for period costuming from the Normans onwards as these are long gowns with large skirts.
Pencils: An HP and up to H2 pencil – used for drawing the pattern lines and notes.
Scotch tape – used in cut and slashes in pattern making, although I have found that the 1-inch painter’s tape (green) works just as well and is easier to mark and remove.
Scissors – Use only a pair of scissors strictly for paper – DO NOT USE YOUR CLOTH CUTTING SCIZZORS.
Rulers – at least a 1 ft ruler – however a 3 ft yard stick works better
Designing Rulers – see note at top of this section – You will need an L square; a variform – used in drawing neck lines – bodice arm holes and necks and certain darts; A curve stick, used in waist, bottom of skirt and darts, and sleeves.
Drafting Paper: In the time when the tailors of the Tudor Elizabethan period drew up patterns, they would use muslim cloth or and brown paper. I have used dot paper for drawing, but this can become rather expensive, and therefore have found newsprint works just as good. Unless you are planning to keep the pattern for some time, the economical would be the newsprint, and is available as roll ends at most newspaper printing companies for around 80 cents a pound.
A compass - used in designing the neck, should open to 3-½ inch diameter.
Credits - Information and research provide by Mistress Christiana Elizabeth Constable (mundane name B O’Neill). Note B. O’Neill had taken a fashion course in 1994 in mundane life and is based from her education and notes. In referring to the different post above, please refer to this section for information, primary the measurements that you have taken on yourself, or and your friend or relative, who wishes to play in the Medieval Anachronism groups. Please note that most of these measurements that I Christiana had mention will work on most costuming and for some male attire, pending on the persona that one may play. These measurements will also work for those that wish to make modern garments as well.
Table – as most would be drawing full size patterns, it is recommend having a long table that measures at least 30 inches wide. The kitchen or dining table will work, as a suitable drawing area and layout area.
Pattern layout on Fabric
In pattern making one will notice that there is no seam allowance on these patterns that you will be drafting: as commercial patterns that available will have these sewing seam allowance included within the pattern.
Lets begin….
Note as with most web blogs, this would be the first entry, and as such one will have to start at the bottom of the blog to receive the information on measurements before proceeding to the sections on designing your garb. As I Christiana enter in the details please refer to blog listings for titles, as articles will be added from time to time.
Beginning with historical research - one must start, before proceeding to making the pattern. Here in the above photo is a late 16th century drawing of a costume, before proceeding to making the pattern. Historical information will be the root to creating your own copy of a historical costume, and as such should be the focus of your attention before creating the pattern. Research begun with a book called Pattens of Fashion - the cut and construction of clothes for men and women c1560 - 1620 by Janet Arnold
Photos of the patterns based on research, before proceeding to making the costume as shown in the drawing above. Modifications to the pattern were made, as I Christiana did not want the train.
