Introduction to Pattern Design – Bodice Sloper Design
Measurements:
Here we will learn the basics of how to make a standard bodice that is to your shape and how will lead to the manipulation of darts in a future post, so as to look period for the period from Norman to Queen Elizabeth I. I Lady Christiana will mention that this is also the fundamental design course condensed that would be taught at a fashion school, and yes, the designing course will work on most aspects of historical to modern design.
Before we Begin! Check your measurements and body type shape.
The first thing is the miss-conception that I know my size. In all walks of life there are many different shapes, some skinny, some pear shape, some that look like apples. With this technique I had learned in the mundane world, these formulas that work with your measurements will mean that it will FIT if it is done properly if done currently. Each post will have the formulas required for the said project. Please do not use these formulas on children, unless they are well developed, usually when into the puberty age. Children measurements and formulas are different and at this time there is no plan to make a course structure for period garments for children at this time.
The Basic Bodice or the Basic Sloper Pattern
1) Tool
2) How to take measurements – covered in introductory to measurements
3) How to draft to fit.
Tools – For drafting the bodice you will need some basic tools. The tools I recommend are available from Can Sew in Vancouver, but from time to they can be found at better sewing shops. Lance, or Fairgate either makes these type of tools. Note these drafting instruments can be expensive, but are well recognized by the pattern drafting companies and will last you a lifetime. Average cost is around 27.00 each.
Tape measure: Basic of all basic: a good reliable cloth tape measure – should be at least 60 inches long at least. For a couple of quarters more it is possible to obtain the 120 inch tape, and I do recommend the 120 inch for period costuming from the Normans onwards as these are long gowns with large skirts.
Pencils: An HP or up to H2 pencil – used for drawing the pattern lines and notes.
Scotch tape – used in cut and slashes in pattern making, although I have found that the 1-inch painter’s tape (green) works just as well and is easier to mark and remove.
Scissors – Use only a pair of scissors strictly for paper – DO NOT USE YOUR CLOTH CUTTING SCIZZORS.
Rulers – at least a 1 ft ruler – however a 3 ft yard stick works better
Designing Rulers – see note at top of this section – You will need an L square; a variform – used in drawing neck lines – bodice arm holes and necks and certain darts; A curve stick, used in waist, bottom of skirt and darts, and sleeves.
Drafting Paper: In the time when the tailors of the Tudor Elizabethan period drew up patterns, they would use muslim cloth or and brown paper. I have used dot paper for drawing, but this can become rather expensive, and therefore have found newsprint works just as good. Unless you are planning to keep the pattern for some time, the economical would be the newsprint, and is available as roll ends at most newspaper printing companies for around 80 cents a pound.
A compass - used in designing the neck, should open to 3-½ inch diameter.
Lets draft the bodice:
Now we have accurate measurements, lets transform then to precision-gauged patterns. The method used here is précised that you don’t really need to make a test pattern or muslim, or maybe a fitting. It will fit like a glove.
Lets begin with the formula
Bust, hip, waist (whatever your measurements are + 2 inches + ease allowance). M = bust measurement.
M (bust) + 2 + ease = measurement on paper
4
Back + to formula – 3/8 inch | Front + to formula + 3/8 inch |
1) Draw back waist length e.g. 19 inches
19 inches |
2) Width of the Draft
Formula: Bust + 2 e.g. 38 + 2 = 10
4 4
Front Piece: 10 inches + 3/8 inch (measure from center line towards outside)
Back Piece: 10 inches + 3/8 inch (measure from center line towards outside)
Note: for front and back closure – before marking from centerline out, make a vertical line next to the first vertical line in step 1 at least 1 inch from centerline than proceed with (2).
Draw the line to be same height as waist height – Join all lines horizontally to form a rectangle.
Back | Front |
3). Armhole length
Formula: Bust + 2 ½ inches = e.g. 38 inches + 2 ½ inches (2.5 inches)
6 6
= 6.333 + 2.5 inches
= 8.83 inches – round off to nearest measurement larger 8.85 inches
Draw a horizontal line across after making down from top horizontal line.
Back (3) | Front (3) | |
4.) Front & Back Width
Formula: Front = Front width + ½ inch e.g. 14 inches + ½ inch = 7 ½ inch
2 2
Back = Back width + ½ inch e.g. 15 inches + ½ inch = 8 inches
2 2
Join lines vertically and divide into thirds for both back and front.
(2)
Back | (1) | Front | ||
(4) | (4) | |||
(3) | (3) | |||
5) Shoulder Slope Line:
Formula: Shoulder divided by 2 e.g. 17 divided 2 = 8 ½ inches. March 8.5 inches from centerline or ease opening line for opening outwards. If on the back this measurement so happens to be less than the should width, adjust shoulder width to correspond to back width.
6) Shoulder slope: On some patterns of historical reference this may not be required, however on doublets and partlets, and outer dresses it is required.
Front formula: Top line lower down by 1 3/8 inch from the shoulder line mark.
Back formula: Top line lower down by ¾ inch from shoulder line mark
7) Neck Line
Formula: Neck measurement /divided by 5 e.g. 15 inches divided 5 = 3 inches
Front: measure 3 inches across from center or front ease line. Measure up ¼ inch and draw a line connecting to (6) Front shoulder slope.
Back: measure 3 inches across from center or back opening ease line. Measure up 1/3 of the 3 inches = 1 inch. Join this line to the (6) back shoulder slope.
8) To form armholes – unless square armholes are required. Front - Use vary form curve ruler to join tip of shoulder to lower third of the armhole length. Back – Make a curve in by ¼ inch from back width line, using vary form to join back shoulder tip to lower third of the armhole length. Join both front and back lines using vary form in bottom third to outside line.
Front waist length – If required move bottom line to new location.
Back | Front | ||
9) Front Dart:
Formula: Bust height from neck tip to e.g. 11-inch mark the spot with a point. Find the bust point by using the bust point measurement divided by 2. e.g. 8 divide 2 = 4 inches, mark the point from center 4 inches of front panel. Front bust dart – draw a line from the bust point mark to the outside line horizontally. The depth of the side bust dart is the differences of the front waist length line and back waist length. Therefore e.g. 2 inches down from this point line (outside line front bodice) mark the spot, than draw a line towards a point located by 3/8 inch from the bust point on the bust horizontal line towards the outside line. Connect the two points. This will create the main dart for the bust.
10). Front Center Dart; Begin 3/8 inch down from bust point and draw a vertical line passing the front waist line. The length should be 5 ½ inches below the waistline.
11). For period dart on back. Use the same measurements for determining bust point. E.g 4 inches, and mark opposite. Follow information provided in (10).
At this stage we have created the basic bodice sloper that we can use for all garments, period or modern. In the next post we will cover collars and sleeves. (future post).
Documentation by: Mistress Christiana Elizabeth Constable – Minister of * (1) Phasiani lacus Manerium Worshipful Guild of Pattern Makers, Tailors, and Dressmakers
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